Our first money saving tip today is on Front Brake Jobs.
Most vehicles today no longer use Drum Brakes in the
front of the vehicle. What they incorporate now is the
Disc Brake System.
This system consists of a Rotor, set of Brake Pads and usually a Single Piston Caliper. Some larger and higher priced vehicles use a Dual Piston Caliper. For todays tip we will stick with the Single Piston Caliper. Ok, First a little bit about the operation. When the brake
pedal is applied, a connecting rod pushes against a master cylinder filled with brake fluid. In turn brake fluid is pushed thru a series of lines and hoses. Eventually ending up at the caliper.
The caliper consists of a fluid chamber, piston and seals. When brake fluid pressure(hydrolic pressure) is applied to the back of the piston, it causes the piston to extend,applying pressure to the rear disc pad.(On some vehicles, the use of a 4 piston caliper is used in applying equal pressure to both front and rear pads. We'll get into this system a little later). In turn applying pressure to the front rotor.
As soon as the rear pad comes in contact with the rotor, the caliper,"which is mounted with a slide type mechanism"
begins to slide inwards. Causing pressure to be applied to the outer disc pad. This causes a vise like action to occur. Thus causing both inner and outer pads to squeeze with the same amount of force, in turn slowing the vehicle down.
Obvious Reasons we know that its Time for a Front Brake Job...
1.Squeaking Noise - when brake pedal is applied.(Usually High Pitched) Most brake pads come with a brake wear sensor built right in.(Usually consists of a small piece of alluminum attached to the inner pad)When the brakes wear down to a certain thickness, it causes this sensor to come in contact with the rotor,causing it to squeak.
"IMPORTANT" Failure to get the pads replaced a short time after the squeakin is heard, could cause serious damage to rotor and possible caliper damage as well.
:NOTE: In my personal experience, damage will start to occur in about 100 to 200 miles after the squeaking occurs.
2.Grinding Noise - when brake pedal is applied. This happens when the friction material is worn so bad, that when the brake is applied it is now causing the back of the brake pad(minus the friction material(usually steel) to come in contact with the rotor causing damage to the rotor).
3.Pulling to either Left or Right - when brake pedal is applied. Does not necessarily mean the brake pads are worn. But, attention is needed
4.Brake Pedal Pulsates - when brake pedal is applied.
Usually caused by the rotors being out of round.
5.Brakes feel like they are not releasing when the brake pedal is released.
Now that we know a little bit about the operation and what to look for. Let's get into saving a few bucks at your neighborhood garage.
I think the best and easiest way to do this is by going thru this process using scenarios.
OK.
A.You bring your car into the garage because, when you apply the brakes you noticed a high pitched squeeking noise coming from the right front tire. "When asked what the problem is with your car, be sure to tell them exactly what you experienced." Depending on the year and mileage of your vehicle, will make a big difference in the type of repairs your car might require.
Keeping an exact record of repairs done, will save you from being charged for something you've already had repaired.
Now the brakes are squeeking, so you know you probably are going to need brake pads. Brake pads come in 3 Grades. (most of the time). Cheap, midgrade and best. Know this when deciding which set you think are best for your needs.
Cheaper is not always better. Depending on what the vehicle is used for and who will be in the vehicle. i.e.
Children.
Then I would highly recommend going with the best. In the long run these pads will save you time and money = These pads tend not to squeek and last a lot longer, mileage wise. Lasting longer means you won't have to replace them as often. Therefore saving you $$.
One other thing before I sign of is always have the rotors turned on a lathe everytime you have the brake pads replaced. This drastically raises your saftey and is extremely important for the new pads to set in and stop properly. This also prevents the new pads from squeaking.
Most Garrages will not warranty squeaking pads if the rotors are not turned. This will again save you time and money if you have to back to the garrage to have your rotors turned, because of a squeak that could have been corrected the first time.
Keep in mind that most garrages will charge you "List Price" for the pads(usually that's a 100% markup).
What I suggest if you have the time and means, Go to your local parts store and pick up the pads yourself, drop them off at the garrage. Some garrages frown on this but most, if not all of them, will accommodate you!
One more thing you should be aware of, is the cost of having the rotors turned vs. buying a set of new ones.
The price on new rotors has come way down in the past few years. The price to have the rotors turned is usually between 15$-25$ each. So it doesn't hurt to call yourself and check to see just how much you can purchase the rotors yourself. Once again they come in different grades. Keep in mind that you get what you pay for. Personally,I have installed cheap rotors on at least 40 cars, only to road test to find out the rotors were out of round.
Next time I will focus on the Grinding noise when the brake pedal is applied!
